For me as a new comer to the process, making Nacatamales was like going 45 MPH in a 30 MPH zone, with a speed bump every block, never realizing the ride would have been more pleasant if you had just slowed down. In my family, Christmas dinner takes days to prepare, the pie dough is two days before, the desserts and breads the day before, and the meat starts cooking in the morning. We eat promptly at 5pm and are all in a food coma by the time Santa arrives. For this reason, I rose early on the morning of the 24th and went over to the house of my favorite family friends, thinking we would need to start this process bright and early, and as usual, they were not thinking along the same lines. When I arrived Cristian was in his work clothes, and Georgina was painting her nails. When I saw the fire was not even ‘encendido’, I knew I had gotten something wrong. I said, “Merry Christmas!” They said “Merry Christmas…pause…why are you here so early?” “I am here to start the nacatamales!” They said “oh well…mom is at the chapel, she will be delayed a while because there are 4 baptisms and 8 communions a long with the Christmas church service, and we can’t start without her…Speed Bump # 1... “Well can’t we start chopping vegetables or something” I ask? “We don’t have the vegetables yet, dad went to go sell the coffee harvest this morning so he can buy the ingredients” Speed bump #2.So we sit, watching Peter Pan, and painting our nails!
Finally, at 4pm I come back to the house and Candida is back from church…they are eating lunch and ask me if I want some, I say “NO! I want to save room for nacatamales” They all look at each other and laugh “those will not be ready for awhile” they say. I answer, “Well how long can they possibly take, we have all the ingredients now right?” Well,yes but Cristian, has to go to the mountains to get the platano leaves…we still have to kill the duck and get the pig lard…bump bump bump. After lunch they do kill the duck, and I am counting my lucky stars I declined lunch, I help pluck the feathers, which takes about an hour and half, then clean it, and chop it. These ‘steps’ are not bumps for them, they knew the process was tedious, as usual it was just me, bumping my head on the roof of the car, trying to drive too fast, in a slow zone! The whole family came over to help make the nacatamales and it we zoomed right along, assembling the nacatamales, layering all the goodies, wrapping them in the leaves and tying them up like presents. By 9pm the lavandero was clean and the nacatamales were snuggled into the great big pot. Like an impatient kid on Christmas I asked again, “so what time will they be ready”? Candida causally answered me, “oh we can check on them around midnight!” BAM, my head smashes against the roof, Final speed bump! My eyes nearly popped out of my head! “MIDNIGHT?” This final bumps, knocks me in line with them. I accept the rice they offer me to tide me over and we sit around eating rice, drinking rum and chatting. I put myself in the drivers hands, who seem to have had the journey planned out all along, because when midnight did role around we opened the steaming pot of nacatamales wrapped up like little presents, and we all hugged eachother, said Merry Christmas and I forgot all about the bumpy road and felt blessed to have been a part of the journey.
The oven where I made Christmas cakes. This is an improved oven that the volunteer before me built.The duck happily splashing around in the mud, he has no idea what is coming! :(
Jorge showing me the duck right before he goes to the corral to slit it's throat. Tarzan the dog is watching closely.
The duck...ready to be put in the nacatamales
Midnight, Jorge lighting the big pot of nacatamales so Candida can see if they are ready.
My Nacatamale, finally ready to eat and soooo delicious. We made 35 of them but with the huge family they have, some people had to share.
Jorge and I after celebrating christmas (they were also so amused by how tired I was!)
Candida serving up the nacatamales and my good friend Douglas in the background.
On the 25th I laid in bed all day sleeping, quilting, and watching movies on my lap top, I was so exhausted from the day before! I also spent a lot of time talking to all of you on the phone, and eating part of a cake I had made!
Yesterday I went out cutting coffee and I took some pictures to show all of you the process! This is a big part of the season here, Cutting coffee is often what allows them to celebrate at all because they get paid a lot! This is the time of year when there is the most money and people go for weeks and sometimes months out into the big coffee plantation cutting for 10-12 hours a day. I was not that hard core by any means, and unlike most of them, I got a hot meal mid day from my "Nica grandmother" where as most of them have to eat cold beans, rice and coffee.
My friend Douglas and I cutting coffee, sorry about the finger on the lens there! To cut coffee you work in rows, so when you get into the field you shout "who finished the last row? Then someone answers you and that is where you start, however they are not straight rows by any means, and I still cannot see the rows clearly, Douglas seemed to see it though!The tin closest to the tree was my "basket" it has to holes, with a belt running through it that you tie around your waist, Douglas had to big basket tied around his waist, then you empty your basket into the white sack. This is our harvest (the sack has coffee grains in it as well), I was so proud of it. But it turns out it was very unimpressive, We cut 1 bucket and 3/4's between the two of us. The women who were working next to us, cut between 4 and 5 buckets each. But in our deference I was just learning, and also trying to teach Douglas some English, while picking coffee in the rain!
Here they are measuring the coffee, they do it by bucket, the big red sacks are those of the women who were picking. The older man is my "Nica Grandfather" he is in his 80's and still wakes up every day at 3am to mill the corn and start the fire. Today they will be running the coffee through a dispulpar to remove the grain from the berry. Then they will set it out to dry.
This is my counterpart for the biodigestors, he is making the drying boxes for the coffee.
This is the corn harvest, from last season, the kids and I sometimes do summer saults down them, it is much more impressive in person!
Much love to all and a very Merry Christmas!
Alicia